How To Build A Farmhouse Storage Bed


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The panels are plywood (although you can still do beadboard paneling or planks for a more country look) and the overall width is 7" narrower than the tradditional Farmhouse Beds. The reason for this is the mattress on this bed extends all the way to the outsides of the legs, instead of to the insides.

So if you have a compact space, this bed is a great alternative to the Farmhouse Bed. It's smaller and includes six huge HUGE drawers for storage.

Please do not attempt this bed as a beginner project with the drawers. For drawers to work, you must build perfectly square, and all cuts must be square and straight.

Shopping List:

3 - Sheets 3/4" Plywood or other sheet goods

1 1/2 - Sheets 1/4" Plywood or other sheet goods

2 - 4x4 post, 7 feet long

2 - 1x4 @ 10 feet long

3 - 2x4 @ 10 feet long (cut longest first!)

5 - 1x10 @ 8 feet long (OR 1 sheet of 3/4" plywood cut into 5 strips 9 1/4" wide)

6 - Euro Style Drawer Slides (the cheapo white ones) 14" long, medium to heavy duty rating

2 - 2x6 @ 6 feet long

3 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long

9 - 1x3 @ 8 feet long

5 - 1/4" hobby stock, 2 1/2" wide @ 8 feet long (OR 1/4" plywood cut into strips 2 1/2" wide)

4" Screws (if you are not using a pocket hole jig and will be attaching 4x4 legs to panels with screws)

6 Knobs or handles

2 inch screws

3 inch screws

3/4 inch finish nails

1 1/4 inch finish nails

2 inch finish nails

1-1/4" Pocket Hole Screws

2-1/2" Pocket Hole Screws

Elmer's Wood Glue

Elmer's Wood Filler

120 grit sandpaper

primer

paint

paint brush

Tools:

measuring tape

square

pencil

hammer (can be substituted for brad nailer with a nail punch)

safety glasses

hearing protection

Kreg Jig

Drill

Circular Saw

Table Sawor Circular Saw with Kreg Rip Cut

Brad Nailer

Random Orbital Sander

Level

Countersink Drill Bit

General Instructions:

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Dimensions:

Dimensions are shown above for queen size.

Cut List:

HEADBOARD

1 - 3/4" Plywood @ 26" x 53"

2 - 1x4 @ 53"

2 - 4x4 @ 54"

2 - 2x4 @ 53"

1 - 2x4 @ 60"

1 - 2x6 @ 62"

FOOTBOARD

1 - 3/4" Plywood @ 15" x 53"

2 - 1x4 @ 53"

2 - 4x4 @ 19"

2 - 2x4 @ 53"

1 - 2x4 @ 60"

1 - 2x6 @ 62"

STORAGE BOXES

4 - 3/4" Plywood @ 15 1/2" x 80 1/4"

8 - 3/4" Plywood @ 15 1/2" x 13 1/2"

2 - 1/4" Plywood @ 79 1/2" x 15"

SUPPORT & CENTER

2 - 2x2 @ 80 1/4"

4 - 2x2 @ 16 3/4"

18 - 1x3 @ 28 1/2" (Slats to mattress specs)

DRAWER BOXES

12 - 1x10 @ 23 1/4"

12 - 1x10 @ 14"

6 - 1/4" Plywood @ 24 3/4" x 14"

*Plywood cut into 9 1/2" strips can be substituted for 1x10s, use at least 1/2" plywood, for direct conversion, use 3/4" plywood

DRAWER FACES

6 - 3/4" Plywood @ 25 1/2" x 13 1/4"

12 - 1/4" hobby stock, 2 1/2" wide @ 8 1/4"

12 - 1/4" hobby stock, 2 1/2" wide @ 25 1/2"

Step 1:

Have your hardware store rip the first piece into three equal sized strips, 15 1/2" wide. Then all you have to do is make the cross cuts at home. These cuts are from the 3/4" thick plywood.

Step 2 Instructions:

From another sheet of 3/4" plywood, have your hardware store rip into two 15 1/2" strips and one 13 1/4" strip. From these strips cut the following pieces.

Step 3 Instructions:

From the final 3/4" piece of plywood, cut it cross wise as noted in the diagram, and then cut your headboard and footboard panel from the larger half. From the remaining pieces, cut your remaining drawer faces.

Step 4 Instructions:

From the 1/4" plywood, cut the following pieces. You will need to either purchase an additional 1/2 sheet of plywood for the two remaining drawer bottoms, or you could use leftover 3/4" stock for the remaining two drawer bottoms.

Step 5 Instructions:

Attach 1x4 trim to panel of headboard. You will do the same with the footboard panel.

Step 6 Instructions:

This is a relatively easy task if you have a Kreg Jig - simply drill 3/4" pocket holes along sides of panel and attach to legs. Make sure you are leaving 1 1/2" to the back of the panel (Very important with footboard).

If you are using traditional screws, mark the legs where they meet up with the panel at the top and bottom (where the panel is covered in trim. Use a drill bit the size of the screw head to drill a hole 2" deep into the legs. In this hole, use a drill bit the size of the screw head to drill a second hole all the way through the 4x4s. Attach to panel with 4" screws and glue.

Step 7 Instructions:

Attach the bottom supports in the same manner as the panel, carefully locating as shown in diagram.

Step 9 Instructions:

Finally the crown. I'd screw on myself to minimize any gaps.

Step 10 Instructions:

The footboard is built just like the headboard - make sure you leave 1 1/2" to the back of the panel - see next step ...

Step 11:

This is so your 2x4 spacers fit just right in the backs. Attach with screws and glue.

Step 12:

You can build these with either a pocket hole jig or traditional screws. Build square if you are using drawers or your drawers will not slide right.

Step 13:

Attach back to the boxes with finish nails and glue. Make sure you nail into all center dividers too. The back will help keep things straight and minimize sagging.

Step 14:

Now this is where things get fun! Take a minute and cut some leftover 4x4s or 2x4s 4" long and use them as blocking to hold the boxes up as you screw to the headboard and footboard. Screw from the inside of the boxes into the legs and supports.

Step 15:

Attach the cleats to the back side of the boxes, leaving 3/4" gap to the top.

Step 16:

Especially if you move up to a king, you will need to add some support to the center. Some 2x2s "legs" as shown above will never be seen, but add a tremendous amount of support to the bed.

Step 17:

Finally, lay the slats. Per your mattress recommendation, you may need more (or can get away with less) slats.

Step 18:

Build six drawers as shown above. Your drawers must be perfectly square to slide properly into the bed. Remember, your drawer should be exactly 1" less than the overall width of the opening, and 1" less deep as well.

Step 19:

Install drawers into bed as shown in diagram, using the white euro style drawer slides that cup the bottom corners of the drawers. Make sure drawer sits inset 1" from outside of box to allow for drawer face. Adjust drawer slides until you are satisfied with how the drawer opens/closes.

Step 20:

Build the drawer faces by attaching 1/4" hobby stock (or other moulding) to the faces with 3/4" finish nails and glue. Place drawer face on installed drawers, with an 1/8" gap on all sides of drawer face. Attach with 1 1/4" finish nails and wood glue.

Preparation Instructions:

Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Project Type:

Queen, Beds

Estimated Cost:

$150 - $200


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